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REVAMPING MARIMEKKO Under its newly minted director Mika Ihamuotila, the renowned Finnish design icon is repositioning itself with a fresh approach and an edgy a itude. BY KATJA PANTZAR PHOTOGRAPH BY LEHTIKUVA hen former banker Mika Ihamuotila, 44, took over the helm of Finnish clothing and textiles house Marimekko in early 2008, it was clear that change was in the air. A public company with an annual turnover of just over 77 million in 2007, Marimekko is a national institution that has successfully parlayed the Finnish design ethic internationally over the past 50 years. Along with the world's leading mobile phone manufacturer Nokia and glass and tableware firm iittala, Marimekko is part of the solid Finnish design tradition based on the idea that everyday items should be visually appealing, well made, long-lasting and environmentally sound. Former Marimekko CEO Kirsti Paakkanen, 79, credited with rescuing the company from near bankruptcy in 1991 and turning it into a profitable entity, sold 20 per cent of the company's stock (her entire share) to Ihamuotila. Ihamuotila, a successful Sampo Bank CEO and financier, had decided to make a career change following his recovery from a life-threatening illness. The public reception for the new director was warm, but it wasn't until the first fashion show under Ihamuotila that the transformation was tangible. W The show was upbeat and energetic yet easygoing. To the sweet strains of birdsong, models wearing colourful casual wear sauntered down the runway. Many onlookers said that the collection was the most unified one that they had seen in years. "With the show, Marimekko jumped ahead by 20 years," wrote Sami Sykkö, style critic and blogger for the leading Finnish daily Helsingin Sanomat. Folksy fabrics, clothing and homewares for the whole family lit up Finland after the devastation and bleakness of the Second World War. The intelligent yet whimsical style of designer and newly appointed Marimekko creative director Samu-Jussi Koski, 33, and his team was evident. Conspicuously absent was clothing by the older generation of designers. Also gone were celebrity models such as Jenni DahlmanRäikkönen, wife of F1 champion Kimi Räikkönen. Future prospects Up on the catwalk The spring/summer 2009 show was held at Helsinki's Voimala, a converted industrial space in the edgy Sörnäinen neighbourhood. Previously, Marimekko's twice-annual ready-to-wear fashion shows had been held at traditional venues such as upscale hotels or opera houses. Whereas Paakkanen's trademark had been black, Ihamuotila's is clearly colour. It appears that Ihamuotila's business acumen (under his tutelage Sampo Bank profits rose to a record 260 million in 2006) is successfully translating into the design world. Despite the global economic downturn, Marimekko's profits during the first half of 2008 sales were up by 10 per cent. Marimekko's popularity continues to grow in Japan: two concept stores were recently opened in Osaka and one in Sendai and Hiroshima, bringing the total concept and shop-in-shops in Japan to 15. Worldwide, there are 50 Marimekko concept stores from Graz, Austria to Vancouver, Canada. In addition to Japan and Europe, the North American market is another area of potential growth. Nevertheless, Ihamuotila isn't afraid to speak openly about what he perceives to be the company's weaknesses. At the firm's media and analyst briefing on second quarter interim report in August 2008, Ihamuotila said that he feels the Marimekko brand is underexploited. He also emphasised the need to focus more on the company's creative process rather than on product manufacturing. While he has great respect for Marimekko's heritage and classic prints such as the wildly popular Unikko ("Poppy") designed in 1964 by Maija Isola, which continues to sell on everything from coin purses to oven mitts, he stressed the importance of commissioning new prints from new designers. Within the women's clothing line, he would like to see a larger variety of coordinates on offer. Ihamuotila also wants to add a selection of solid coloured skirts, belts and bags alongside patterned blazers. Looking from the outside, Marimekko's international visibility will most likely grow, as will co-branding deals. To date, partnerships have been struck with companies such as Swedish-based global clothing chain H&M, who used Marimekko prints for a special spring/ summer 2008 line. After his first quarter with the company, Ihamuotila told Helsingin Sanomat that "Marimekko will be developed for the long-term; in five or ten years I believe that Marimekko will be a good investment." 36 FOCUS
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